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Having become
to be known as "Japanese Mountain", much of the information
about the area was available in Japanese. The Japanese
continued to dominate the climbing scene of Manaslu until
1971. A few trekkers, including peripatetic Hugh Swift,
managed to obtain the trekking permit for the region, but
otherwise this trek always has been the domain of the
mountaineering expeditions. The journey around these legendary
mountains is enjoyable and tough. Beginning from Gorkha Buri
Gandaki valley river, over Larkya La pass, and descend to the
Marsyangdi River, you will trek down to Besi Shar, from where
we will drive back to Kathmandu.
MANASLU TO TILICHO
LAKE
A fantastic trek which links the
circuits of Manaslu and Annapurna
Manaslu High
From the Hindu middle hills
culture to the Tibetan high-country dwellers, the Manaslu
Circuit trek in the heart of the Nepal Himalaya is a cultural
trek par excellence, without a doubt one of the best treks in
Nepal. Manaslu, 'The mountain of the spirit', is the eight
highest peak in the world, and from upper Nubri must be one of
the most beautiful ones; the spectacular mountain scenery has
to be seen to be believed. We trek the classic high trek
around Manaslu from the historic town of Gorhka, with its
wonderful 'durbar', or palace, to Kutang in lower Manaslu and
on to upper Nubri, where trade with Tibet continues as it has
for hundreds of years. We experience incredible mountain
panoramas after the first few days, and add extra days at the
most beautiful villages before the Larkya La (pass).
Starting in the middle hills of Nepal, passing
though magnificent gorges, pristine forests and long, wooded
valleys, stopping at Tibetan gompas in remote villages and
finishing with a high pass crossing to the Annapurna Circuit,
this trek really has it all! We start the trek from ancient
Gorkha, visiting the old 'durbar' or palace, before setting
off on the spectacular high route to Korlebesi. From here, we
begin following the trade route along the Buri Gandaki, en
route passing through a unique region known as Nupri, where
Tibetans settled centuries ago and continue to live in their
traditional dwellings. The mountainous border of Tibet is just
a few hours trek away, and we can climb up to a pass looking
out into Tibet, passing Tibetan traders traveling along more
ancient trade routes. We have our trademark extra time for
acclimatisation in these wonderful high altitude villages. To
finish the Manaslu Circuit, we must cross the Larkya La (pass)
at 5100m, one of the most beautiful passes in Nepal, crossing
from Nupri into the Manang district, and then enter the
Annapurna Circuit at Dharapani. Three or four more days of
comfortable tea-house trekking, and we reach our transport
back to Kathmandu.
The diverse Tibetan culture, spectacular
scenery and snow peaks of the Manaslu Himal Circuit make it
one of the most interesting, as well as one of the most
challenging, treks in Nepal. Don't miss it ... and if you have
time, add the Nar Phu extension for a real journey into the
lost worlds of Tibet.
Outline Itinerary
Day 1 - Sunday 15 October
2006 - Arrive Kathmandu
2 - Kathmandu
3 - Drive Gorkha,
trek Gorkha Camp
4 - Trek Arkole
5 - Trek Kalibote
6
- Trek Barpak
7 - Trek Laprak
8 - Trek Korlebesi
9 -
Trek Jagat
10 - Trek Phillip
11 - Trek Deng
12 - Trek
Ghap
13 - Trek Lho
14 - Trek Sama Gaon
15 - Sama
Gaon
16 - Trek Samdo
17 - Samdo
18 - Trek Dharamsala
High Camp
19 - Trek Bimtang
20 - Trek Tilje
21 - Trek
Dharapani
22 - Trek Chamje
23 - Trek Ngadi
24 - Trek
Besi Sahar. Drive Kathmandu
Day 25 - Wednesday 8 November -
Depart
The Route
Note: The Lonely Planet guide
book describes the Manaslu trek as tougher than most, but this
is now wrong. There have been new trails put in that
significantly reduce the climbing involved and reduce the
exposure. The trails are now wide and good unlike in Tilman's
time (1950) where in one part the trail was a few narrow
planks resting on branches that had been hammered into cracks
in the rock!
Detailed itinerary
Early
Arrival
Providing you have sent us your arrival details,
you should be met at the airport and escorted to the guest
house. A representative from the Sahara Worldwide Treks and Expedition
will met you there if you have sent your arrival
details.Sahara Worldwide will book the rooms for you, just let her
know.
Day 1 - Arrive Kathmandu 1350m
You’ll be
met at the airport by Anangam and/or a representative from the
Sahara Worldwide Treks and Expediiton. They will have your name and be
looking for you.
Anangam's mobile: +(977 1) 9851049206, Office
Phone No: +(977 1) 4700040
If Anangam wasn't able to come to the airport,
he will meet you at the guest house and introduce you to
Thamel, the main tourist area of Kathmandu. Thamel is a myriad
of banners, signs, music shops, bakeries, internet cafes,
restaurants, bars, hotels, shops of all imaginable varieties
and eccentrically clad backpackers. Over dinner we collect
your passports, check your insurance details (please have a
copy of your travel medical insurance policy with you), go
over gear and get to know each other over a beer at Thamel
...
Day 2 - Kathmandu 1350m
Today we explore
the Kathmandu valley with Anangam. Options (we usually have
time to do three of these): Climb the many steps to
Swayambhunath (the monkey temple), with its commanding views
of Kathmandu (at 1420 m), its whitewashed stupas and its
unique synthesis of Buddhism and Hinduism. The striking Buddha
eyes of Boudhanath Stupa watch over a lively and colorful
Tibetan community and attract pilgrims from all over the
Himalayan Buddhist realm. In the midst of traditional gompas,
and hung with long strings of multi-colored prayer flags,
Boudhanath attracts Sherpas, Tibetans and tourists alike for
daily circumambulations (koras) of the stupa. Durbar Square,
one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, is a
synthesis of Hindu and Buddhist temples, stupas and statues,
and is often the site of festivals, marriages and other
ceremonies. Hindu Pashupatinath and its sacred temple complex
on the banks of the holy Bagmati river. Here, monkeys run up
and down the steps of the burning ghats, and trident-bearing
saddhus draped in burnt-orange and yellow sit serenely
meditating - when they’re not posing for photos-for-rupees.
We'll have time for a bit of gear shopping in
Thamel for anyone who needs to do this, and then for dinner
wood-oven pizza at the Roadhouse Cafe ...
Day 3 - Drive to Gorhka, trek to camp above
Gorkha With Sahara Worldwide
We're up early for our scenic
six-hour drive to the historic town of Gorkha, with it's old
'durbar', or King's palace, a mix of Buddhist and Hindu
deities, perched high up in the surrounding hillsides and
reached by worn stone steps. After organizing the gear and
loads with the porters, we head up to our first night's
campsite above the Gorkha palace, stopping en route to visit
this well-maintained (but fortified) site.
Day 4 - Trek to Arkole 570m With Sahara Worldwide
The middle hills of Nepal are timeless,
and we trek for the first two days through classic middle
hills scenery; rolling, forested hills, snaking rivers with
rounded rock strewn on the beaches, local fishermen casting
their nets, iridescent rice fields, papaya, lemon and orange
trees, water buffalos, thatched huts and local 'battis'
(Nepali tea-houses) along the trail for a quick dal bhaat or
cup of chai. We camp along the beach at a lovely campsite just
below the small village of Arkole, and enjoy our first
mountain sunset over the adjacent river.
Day 5 - Trek to Kalibote 800m With Sahara Worldwide
A continuation of yesterday's scenery, we
trek though Gurung villages, over several swaying suspension
bridges spanning the river, and we reach our camp at Kalibote
in the early afternoon. Tomorrow we have a steep climb ahead
of us, and this is the last campsite before the (large)
hill.
Day 6 - Trek to Barpak 1915m With Sahara Worldwide
Have a big breakfast this morning; we
head off early to avoid the afternoon sun for our steep, long
climb up to the wonderful village of Barpak, situated
perfectly on a green ridge overlooking the misty valley below.
Barpak is a large Gurung village, extremely clean, with a
weekly market, wide alleys between the houses, grain and
vegetables drying outside on the patios, several shops,
viewpoints and flowers planted along the decks of these Gurung
houses.
Day 7 - Trek to Laprak 2200m With Sahara Worldwide
Another early start and another climb;
after a few hours, we reach the ridge which separates Laprak
and Barpak, and are rewarded with panoramic mountain views
(along with herds of sheep grazing on the grassy hillsides)
from the peak. Another hour or two brings us down to another
large Gurung village, Laprak, perhaps not quite as scenic as
the last. The Maoists often stay in this village, and we might
be paid a visit for some friendly indoctrination.
Day 8 - Trek to Korlebesi 875m With Sahara Worldwide
A classic Nepali trekking day; it's an
extremely steep decent to the river, and after crossing a very
rickety suspension bridge, we climb equally steeply back up,
past terraced fields of pink sorghum and rice. We contour
around several hillsides on a narrow trail, barely visible at
times, up to a small chorten just below the village of Singla.
From here, the going is easy, and we enjoy the views of the
Manaslu Himal, Kutang Himal and Sringi Himal to the north as
we walk down through more terraced fields and papaya trees,
through the Gurung village of Korla, and then down along a
narrow, winding trail to Korlebesi on the Buri Gandaki river.
Look out for the local women weaving straw mats in the village
...
Day 9 - Trek to Jagat 1370m With Sahara Worldwide
A few hours of walking by tobacco and
buckwheat fields, past rocks washed smooth by the river, we
reach the hot springs in the centre of the small, terraced
village of Tatopani, where we have plenty of time to soak our
grungy bodies in the gushing hot water, and then perhaps go
for a swim in the icy river below, drying off on the wonderful
river-side beach. A gentle climb through the woods past some
spectacular waterfalls, across another suspension bridge and
through a short section of forest path and we reach Dobhan,
where we stop for lunch. Above Dobhan, the Buri Gandaki
descends in an impressive series of steep rapids. Here, our
trail climbs high above the river to descend through what
appears to be a huge gateway into some secret place; in front
the valley widens, the river calms, and we splash through
streams before coming into our camp below Jagat, the entrance
to the Manaslu park. It is worth wandering around this
beautiful, paved village, where proud villagers have recorded
how much they contributed to these paving schemes; Jagat
people love their village! Our campsite is impressively clean
and grassy, with cold beers available at the shop next
door.
Day 10 - Trek to Phillim 1570m With Sahara Worldwide
After descending a long series of stone
steps to the river, we climb a terraced hill to Saguleri, from
where we can see the impressive Sringi Himal, 7187m. We pass
through the charming, paved village of Sirdibas, where the
local children might be selling oranges. Crossing the river
again via a long suspension bridge at Gata Khola, the path
splits, with the right-hand branch heading off towards the
Ganesh Himal. Our route continues upstream, and again we have
a steep climb to reach Philim and its Japanese sponsored
school. We will either camp here or at a campsite an hour
further, Eklai Bhatti.
Day 11 - Deng 1540m With Sahara Worldwide
We pass through Eklai Bhatti, and then on
through a narrow, dramatic gorge section with towering walls,
and past a thundering waterfall just above us on the right of
the trail. We cross the river three more times in the next two
hours (on even more sketchy bridges, Nepali style) to avoid
the difficult valley sides, and then leave the gorge, climbing
at one point on steps cut into tree trunks, to the small
village of Deng. This is the start of the lower Nubri region
called Kutang, where the people are ethnically Tibetan but
speak a different dialect than the people of upper Nubri. We
camp just below the village, and get fresh greens from the
family that owns the land. It's worth a visit to the upper
floor of their house above us, perhaps for a glass of local
'chang', or Tibetan beer, and for a chat around the hearth. It
starts to feel like a piece of old Tibet at last.
Day 12 - Trek to Ghap 2165n With Sahara Worldwide
The valley is still steep-sided and
impressive; we cross to the village of Lana, and start to see
mani stones (prayers etched onto wayside rocks), a sure sign
that we are entering another of the tiny Tibetan footholds
that mark the high Himalayan places. After about three hours,
we reach Ghap, where we set up camp for the night at the house
of some wonderful villagers. The egg-shells strung above their
'tea-house' door prevent the evil spirits from entering the
house. The sun goes down early here, so we will cross the
small bridge spanning the Buri Gandaki and trek steeply up for
45 minutes to the village of Chaak, where the son of the
tea-house owner lives with his family. There is a small,
deserted gompa, carved mani stones (the style here is
distinctly different that most other Tibetan Buddhist
regions), and some Tibetans from Samdo who graze their yaks
here. In the village, they will be drying their maize to grind
into flour, and then trade with the people of upper Nubri, and
we might be invited into the son's house for some Tibetan
salt-butter tea and roasted maize on the cob. Look out across
the river for views of the village of Prok perched on the
plateau jutting over the river below us. From Chaak, you can
trek further to Kwak, and there is a trail up to Shringi Himal
base camp. A fire recently destroyed the gompa
there.
Day 13 - Trek to Lho 3180m With Sahara Worldwide
Today is a wonderful trekking day; after
passing through the seemingly deserted village of Nambachhe,
planted with fields of barley and lined with mani walls, we
ascend through a dense, cool forest for an half an hour to
Namrung, at 2540 meters, where we will stop for a cup of chai.
A few hours later, we reach the village of Lihi at 2840
meters, a substantial altitude gain. The air is pleasantly
cool, and we stop for a breather before heading on the Sho,
which we can see on the ridge ahead, for lunch on the deck of
a local house. Look for the bear claw on the upper deck of the
house. From Sho, the views of Ngadi Chuli are spectacular, and
further on, towards Lho, we are finally treated to views of
Manaslu itself; quite an impressive afternoon!
Day 14 - Trek to Sama Goan (Ro) 3525m With Sahara Worldwide
We gain altitude to take us into alpine
territory and increasing mountain views. There are more mani
walls and three more crossings of the Buri Gandaki on our
route to Namrung, a great place for morning chai in the
Manaslu lodge, run by friendly Tibetan family; check out their
prayer area and masks! Above this village the valley opens out
and there are extensive pastures. We are climbing climb gently
now, cross a large stream flowing down from the Lidanda
Glaciers, and reach the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho at
3000m. We may camp at Shyala, or push on to Sama Gaon; from
either there are incredible views of Manaslu.
Sama Gaon, or Ro, as the locals call it, sits
in a bowl at the foot of the pastures leading to the high
peaks. The people settled here from Tibet over 500 years ago,
and there are two gompas dating from this time with unique
architecture, built of wood. The Tibetan villages here have
entrance gates which are very distinctive from Ladakh and
Tibet, and they maintain an active trade with their
coreligionists in Tibet (notice the Chinese brandy and beer on
sale). If the weather is good, you will see the village women
weaving wool (baal) from Tibet into gowns - which are then
traded back to Tibet
Day 15 - Sama Gaon With Sahara Worldwide
We have two nights here, a full day to
explore the village and gompas; a little piece of old Tibet!
This is also an extra day in case anyone is having trouble
acclimatizing ...
Day 16 - Trek to Samdo 3690m With Sahara Worldwide
Another day, another kingdom in the sky.
Hard to keep stopping, but we do to look back at the
incredible mountain views on the walk up to Samdo, an easy
three hours. You can spot the entrance chorten high on a bluff
an hour out of Ro. The village is a collection of houses and
lodges at 3690m, high enough to feel it now, and most trekkers
miss the heat of a week ago as we huddle around the lodge
stove and a wind from Tibet batters the windowpanes. As Eric
Newby, the doyen of travel writers said, 'you wanted Central
Asia, and you got it!'. But the dining tent is warm and cozy,
and so are our tents.
Day 17 - Samdo With Sahara Worldwide
On
our rest day here why not a day trip to Old Tibet; no passport
required. It takes five hours walking to do just that, and
then take in the views and ruminate on the border markers at
the top; 'China, 1962.' True high Asia!
Like the people of Ro, Samdo inhabitants are
Tibetan, and were ceded the land by the king of Jumla over 500
years ago; but, unlike the Ro people, they only claimed their
land after the Chinese takeover in the early 1950s. Since then
they have established a trade with China and India, marketing
among other things, the aphrodisiac root that grows in the
region. Kim will inveigle you into some of the local houses
for Chang, salt butter tea and carpets!
Day 18 - Trek to Dharamsala/Larkya Phedi 4460m
With Sahara Worldwide
We leave on the trade route to old
Tibet and climb through the ruins of Larkya bazaar, one of the
trade markets that flourished years back. After two hours of
climbing with increasingly incredible views, we come to the
campsite at Dharamsala, where it's a hot lunch and a feast of
views.
Day 19 - Cross Larkya La (4930m) to Bimtang
3590n With Sahara Worldwide
After a short climb above the
lodge, we reach the ablation valley on the North side of the
Larkya Glaciers. There are views of Cho Danda and then of
Larkya Peak. Finally, we walk across the moraines of the
glacier, making a gradual ascent which becomes steeper only in
the last section to the pass. From the pass, there are
outstanding views of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kangguru and
the huge Annapurna II. If there is fresh snow, we may see snow
leopard prints. Bob Rosenbaum, one of our returning trekkers,
did a 'Bob Special' excursion, and saw large human like bare
footprints here.
The top of the pass is truly unbelievable.
From the pass, where we dive into lunch, is a steep ankle
straining drop to a trail following the glacial moraine. Be
warned, stop to admire the view, or you may fall. It is a
longer day then usual to Bimtang, but to walk into these low
pastures with the evening mist coming in and Manaslu; it's an
experience not to be missed. And of course the three sisters
of the 'Three sisters hotel' are on hand with Himalayan
chilled beer. Does life get any better?
Day 20 - Trek to Tilje 2300m With Sahara Worldwide
Let Kim have her coffee this morning
before you say Hello; she is no fan of cold, and the campsite
at Bimtang is FRIGID in the morning. Porters pour hot water
over tent pegs to get them out. Pee bottles freeze. No option
if you want to get warm, move down valley into the sun,
through forested hillsides to Tilje, at the end of our lost
world. The gorge ahead marks apple pie and hot shower land -
the Annapurna circuit. Our last day of camping!
Day 21 - Trek to Dharapani 1860m With Sahara Worldwide
This morning we've got an easy trek down
to Dharapani, stopping en route at the gompa in Thongje on the
old Annapurna trail. It's our last night with the Nar Phu
group, so we'll get together for a few beers and a celebration
with the porters that are heading down with the Manaslu group
in the evening.
*** From here, the Nar Phu group continues up
the trail to Koto, and the Manaslu group treks down the trail
to Besi Sahar with a Sherpa guide ***
Day 22 - Trek to Chamje 1430m With Sahara Worldwide
We climb through terraced fields to the
Karche La (Pass), and can see ahead a green and heavily
forested valley, dropping down to the distant Marshyangdi
river. At Thonje village is our final restricted area
checkpost. Here we cross the Marshyangdi River and join the
main Annapurna Circuit, and the hoards of trekkers. At the
intersection, we head down through the checkpost at Dharapani
and along the valley to the scenic Tal. Tal means lake, and
the area here was formed when the valley was blocked by a
landslide and a dam formed behind. The lake has long gone and
now the village of Tal sits on the river flats. We lose much
altitude today as we drop back down the steep hillside and
over the river to Chamje, the 'wild west' village of the
Annapurnas, where we stay in a lovely lodge ... with hot
showers!
Day 23 - Trek to Ngadi 930m With Sahara Worldwide
We start the morning with another steep
downhill trek to Jagat and continue into rice paddy realm
again as we trek down again from Bahundanda to Ngadi at 930
meters. Back to the lush, semi-tropical middle hills of Nepal!
We stay at yet another wonderful lodge tonight, taking
advantage of the well developed system of tea houses in the
Annapurnas.
Day 24 - Trek to Besi Sahar 760m, drive to
Kathmandu With Sahara Worldwide
The last day of the trek.
It is a relatively short (and hot) walk back to Bhulbhule and
Khudi, where we will meet our transport back to Kathmandu if
the road is passable. If not, we continue back to Besi Sahar
and start the drive from there. It is a different world back
in the Nepali hills, and the gentle light sends us on our way
back to Kathmandu.
Finally, a shower! We book into our rooms at
the Guest House, and wash off the grime of weeks of trekking.
Out for a last dinner together to celebrate the trek. Did we
really just return from the mountains and valleys of remote
Manaslu?
Day 25 - Depart
We take you to the airport
for your flight home. We hope you've had a fantastic trek
around Manaslu. See you again in the Himalayas soon
...
or if any of you want to take rest in
Kathmandu that depends on you and on your leasure time.
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