DAY 01

Katmandu - Pokhara by bus (200 km) in 7h.

We walk north through the arid plateau lands that stretch up to Tibet. The trail is quite barren with craggy rocks and sand and is mostly flat, which makes it very easy going. This enjoyable start is at the same time picturesque, with views of big peaks all around such as Dhaulagiri (8167m), Tukuche (6920m) and, in the west, the awesome mountain above Kagbeni--Nilgiri. Over to the south and southwest the entire Annapurna Massif can be seen.

DAY 02

Pokhara - Jomosom (2713m) by plane - Kagbeni (2810m). A 4-hour walk.

Nice views of the Gorkha Himal.

 DAY 03

Kagbeni - Chele (3000m) in 6h 30.

The trail climbs up steadily towards the Tibetan plateau. At first, the path follows the river closely, later it leads eastwards to a flat piece of dry and desert-like land. The scenery is amazing with its red sandstone pillars and canyons. Thousands of years of erosion have formed the landscape; rock formations in fantastic forms and colours will be our companion throughout the trip. The small town of Chele is nestled among extensive barley fields that blanket the hillside.

 DAY 04

Chele - Geling (3500m) in 6h 30.

The climb continues along the side of a spectacular steep canyon to a pass at 3500m with great views of the Himalayan chain, the Nilgiri and Tilicho. From here, it descends on a pleasant trail to Samar (3300m) situated in a grove of poplar trees. This is a major stopping place for horse and mule caravans. Then the trail climbs steadily into a valley filled with juniper trees to reach 3800m. We then descend gently towards Geling.

 DAY 05

Geling - Tsarang (3500m) in 6h.

The trail climbs gently through fields, and then becomes steeper to reach Nyi La (3840m). This pass is the southern boundary of Lo or Mustang itself. We descend to Tsarang, a large spread-out village inhabited entirely by Lobas. The huge five-storey monastery fortress is perched on the edge of the Kali Gandaki gorge, to the East end of the village. The Gompa houses an excellent collection of statues and Thankas.

 DAY 06

Tsarang - Lo Manthang (3700m) in 5h.

We climb gently above the valley to round a large chorten visible for miles around, then continue to the final ridge (3850m). Through a prayer flagged notch, a natural portal, lies the ‘plain of inspiration’ beneath our feet. Out in front of us, the red and grey monastery of Namgyal, summer residence of the kings of Mustang. In the centre, surrounded by a ring of rounded hills, each topped by a crumbling fort, stands the amazing walled city of Lo Manthang, the capital of the inner kingdom, and the seat of its great monastic tradition. The prosperity of the city comes mostly from the time of intense commerce with Tibet (salt and wool).

DAY 07- 08

Lo Manthang.

We now have two full days to explore the many monasteries, ancient halls and temples of the walled city and the areas around it. The centre of the city is dominated by the three major buildings: the Champa Lhakang, (housing an enormous painted seated Buddha, claimed to be dating back to the early 15th century); the Thugchen Gompa, with its wonderful frescoes; and the Raja’s Palace, the most imposing building in the city, with its solid tapering walls sweeping up to a full four stories. You might even have the occasion to meet Jigme Dorje, the Raja.

DAY 09

Lo Manthang - Ghami (3460m) in 6h 30.

For the first part of the return journey to Kagbeni, an alternative route crosses the Tsarang Khola farther westward. Our track meanders through this wide sparse pasture land. Then we reach a greener valley and descend past the isolated settlement of Lo Gekar to the welcome lush green of the trees around Ghar Gompa. Afterwards, we walk up to a small pass and continue over to the lovely green valley of Tramar, where the distinctive red-fluted cliffs return to contrast with the yellow hues of the north. Continuing down through the village fields we reach Ghami, a pretty whitewashed village with a small gompa and a nunnery.

DAY 10

Ghami - Samar (3300m) en 6h.

We rejoin our outward journey. We steadily climb up to the Nyi La pass, then go down and cut across Tama Gaon, avoiding descending all the way to Geling.

DAY 11

Samar- Chuksang (3050m) in 4h.

A steep descent towards Chele. The trail leads south to join the Kali Gandaki route. We are back amongst green fields.

DAY 12

Chuksang - Kagbeni en 5h.

DAY 13

Kagbeni - Jomosom en 4h.

A short walk that gives us time for an excursion to Marpha. A welcome or difficult return to civilisation after the unspoilt simplicity of Mustang.

DAY 14

Jomosom – Pokhara by plane.

The route gets easier. We start with a gentle climb through paddy fields towards the small Karcha La pass and descend through fir tree and rhododendron forests to Tillije.

DAY 15

Pokhara - Katmandu by bus.

Pokhara - Katmandu by bus.

DAY 01-08

Same stages as above.

DAY 09

Lo Manthang - Surkhan (6h).

 DAY 10

Surkhan - Tange Camp (5h).

 DAY 11

Tange - Camp before Tetang (4h).

 DAY 12

Tetang - Muktinath (7h).

 DAY 13

Muktinath - Jomosom (6h).

DAY 14

Jomosom - Pokhara by plane.

DAY 15

Pokhara - Katmandu by bus.

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